"What Shall A Lieutenant Wear?"

This is an addendum to “What Shall I Wear” directed to those members who will be Re-enacting as Officers and NCOs of the Regiment.

Briefly stated, there's not a whole lot of difference in terms of requirements or costs. Unlike the 18th Century, today the material costs of an officer's or NCO's uniform are essentially the same as those of a private. In a few cases they might actually be cheaper. The required arms and accoutrements are somewhat different from those of a private, and tend to balance out in terms of cost. Overall, if the Regimental Staff determines that you should fill one of these roles, you are looking at aproximately the same bottom line in cost and availability.

To save space, officer/NCO Members are asked to refer to “What Shall I Wear” for all details except as noted below.

CORPORALS -
This is the easy one. The uniform, arms and accoutrements for a corporal are identical to those of a private, with one exception. A corporal will require an extra yard of regimental lace to make a shoulder knot on his right shoulder as his “badge” of rank. The Regimental Staff will provide instructions on how the knot is to be formed and sewn to the regimental coat. For all other purposes, follow the guidelines in “What Shall I Wear”.

MUSICIANS (Drummers and Fifers) -
Musicians, especially drummers, were extremely important members of any regiment in the 18th Century. Drummers provided “the beat” which kept the men in step through the complicated manuvers of linear warfare. They also passed orders from reveille in the morning through advance, retreat, charge and other motions on the battlefield, using different beats and rythyms on their instruments. Fifers helped relieve the monotony of marching, which is what foot soldiers spent most of their time doing. For these reasons, the musicians were considered to be of similar rank to sergeants, and paid accordingly.
Because they were the communication system of the regiment, musicians were dressed to be easily seen at all times. Mainly this was done by dressing musicians in ”reverse colours”; that is, the body colour of their regimental coat was the facing colour of the regiment, and the musicians' facings were red. So, musicians of the 40th will wear coats of buff, with red facings. In addition, musicians will wear a great deal more regimental lace on their coats than privates or corporals.
In general, the musician's uniform will be as stated in “What Shall I Wear”. The exceptions are as follow:
- REGIMENTAL COAT: When ordering Kochan & Phillips cloth from Najecki, order between 2 and 3 1/2 yards of Buff cloth as the body cloth, and 1 yard of Bright Madder Red cloth for facings. All other cloth and buttons for the coat are identical to the private's coat.
If you're having your coat made by C&D Jarnagin, specify “Buff” for your body colour.
You will require something in the vicinity of 50 yards of regimental lace. The Regimental Staff will provide instructions on where this lace should be sewn to the coat.
- HAT: Musicians did not wear Tricorn Hats. Instead, they wore a sort of Mitre Cap, similar to those worn by grenadiers. At present the Regimental Staff is consulting with The Discriminating General to supply appropriate musicians' Mitre Caps, similar to the grenadier's Mitre Cap shown here (scroll to British Mitre Cap 1743-1763) The price will likely be the same as quoted for the grenadier's cap, $435.00 CDN.
- FIRELOCK: Musicians never carried a firelock, so you will not have to purchase this, or any of the associated accoutrements and accessories.
- HANGAR (and Scabbard): Musicians did carry swords for self-defense. The British 1742 pattern sword from Loyalist Arms, as specifed in “What Shall I Wear” is appropriate. However, if you want something more authentic, the Musician's Sword (scroll to Musician's Sword [#334]) from G.G. Godwin for $195.00 USD, is a better choice.
- WAISTBELT: A musician will require one of these to carry his hangar (or sword) and scabbard. The waistbelt from The Discriminating General for $72.00 CDN is appropriate, even though a musician will not need the second frog for the bayonet and scabbard.
- DRUM: Obviously, you can't be a drummer without one of these. The Cooperman Drum (scroll to Cooperman Drum [#278]) from G.G. Godwin should be your first choice. This is a full-size drum and may be too large for drummers who are not yet fully grown. If this is the case, the Regimental Staff will suggest alternatives.
After purchase, the drum will have to be finished to look like this (scroll to bottom). The Regimental Staff is making inquiries to find a local sign painter who can do this work for you. G.G. Godwin gives a price range of $300 - $850 USD for the Cooperman Drum, but we expect that the purchase price, to our specifications, will be at the low end of this range. Finishing will be extra.
Drummers will also need a pair of drumsticks from G.G. Godwin (scroll to [#220], $8.95 USD per pair) and a drum carriage from Najecki in English buff leather for $65.00 USD. The optional brass buckle for this carriage ($12.00 USD) is highly recommended, as is the optional drummer's apron for $40.00 USD.
- FIFE: Just as obviously, a fifer will need a fife. These are available from G.G. Godwin in a choice of maple ($15.50 USD), rosewood ($68.00 USD) or ebony ($98.95 USD), depending on your taste and budget. You will also need a fife case, British [#176B] for $47.95 USD, and a fife sling [#213] for $19.75 USD.

The bottom line for a musician is that the total cost of his uniform and equipment will be somewhat less than that of a private or corporal. His mitre cap is significantly more expensive than a tricorn, and he will have to buy twice as much, or more, regimental lace for his coat. A drummer will have a considerable outlay for his instrument; a fifer less so. But both will save the significant cost of a firelock, cartridge box, bayonet, and all the various accessories.
What can't be measured in dollar terms, however, is the time and effort that you will have to spend to learn to play your instrument correctly. More than any other position in the Regiment, a musician will have to dedicate the time to regular practice to learn and maintain his skill.

SERGEANTS -
This is a bit more complicated, but not overly so. In general, the sergeant's uniform will be as stated in “What Shall I Wear”. The exceptions are as follow:
- SHIRT: A sergeant should have at least one ruffled shirt, available from G.G Godwin (the regular Officer's Shirt) at $39.50 USD, for dress occasions. If you can afford two such shirts, specify one with cuff ruffles and one without. Alterations are recommended to allow the waistcoat to be closed through the chest ruffles.
- NECK STOCK: When a sergeant wears a ruffled shirt, a Ruffled Stock is not necessary. At such times he should wear a regular Neck Stock from Jas. Townsend [LS-376], in white, for $5.00 USD. The same note on preventing the ties of your Neck Stock unravelling as mentioned in “What Shall I Wear” should be followed.
- WAISTCOAT: When ordering from C&D Jarnagin Co., specify “British Madder Red” for the Body and Pocket colour. Also, sergeants did not wear regimental lace, but plain white lace instead. This is available from Najecki (scroll to Worsted Wool Herringbone Lace) in ½” natural white for $2.00/yd. 4 yards will do for your waistcoat, but you will need about 24 yards more for your regimental coat.
- FATIGUE CAP: When ordering from C&D Jarnagin Co., specify “British Madder Red” for the crown.
- REGIMENTAL COAT: When ordering Kochan & Phillips cloth from Najecki, order Mock Scarlet instead of Bright Madder Red. All other cloth and buttons for the coat are identical to the private's coat. However, as stated above for the waistcoat, the lace is plain white and available from Najecki.
If you're having your coat made by C&D Jarnagin, specify “British Madder Red” for your body colour.
- SERGEANT'S SASH: This was one of the distinguishing marks of a sergeant. This sash was wrapped around the waist and tied at the left hip. These are available from The Discriminating General for $89.00 CDN, plus shipping. Specify buff as the facing colour.
- FIRELOCK: Sergeants did not normally carry a firelock on parade or for other official duties, but when in action in North America few sergeants neglected to carry one. If you wish to make “bangs”, the Regimental Staff would recommend the 1740's - 50's Officers Fusil from Loyalist Arms (scroll to 1740's - 50's Officers Fusil) in either .62 or .66 calibre, for $699.00 CDN. You will also require a bayonet and scabbard (scroll to LABAFC) for $62.50 CDN.
All the musket accessories listed in “What Shall I Wear” will also be required for a sergeant's fusil, except the sling and gun case will likely be shorter, and the cleaning kit should be specified for .62 or .66 calibre, depending on the fusil.
- WAISTBELT: A sergeant will require one of these to carry his hangar and scabbard (the same as worn by privates, from Loyalist Arms) at all times, and also his bayonet and scabbard if he's carrying a firelock. The waistbelt from The Discriminating General for $72.00 CDN is just as ideal for a sergeant as for a private or corporal. However, if carrying a firelock, a sergeant will not require the cartridge pouch and belt. Instead, you want a ...
- BELLY BOX: ... also from The Discriminating General, for $75.00 CDN, which carries only 18 rounds but is more appropriate to the rank. The belly box will require a belt to carry it over the waistbelt, available from G.G. Godwin for $26.25 USD. Tell them what your normal waist size is, and they will make the belt to fit about 10 - 12 inches more than this, because the belt is worn over, not behind, the box.
- HALBERD: This was the other distinguishing mark of a sergeant. When not carrying a firelock, that is, for ceremonial and drill, a sergeant would carry this medieval-style pole arm, consisting of a long shaft with a steel tip at the bottom and topped with a socket and head that combined a spear point, axe head and hook. The 18th Century halberd was not really functional as a weapon; it was more of a “badge of office”. But it was still useful to literally hold the troops in line and to intimidate any who might think of running away. Halberds are available from G.G. Godwin (scroll to British Halberd [#157]) for $295.00 USD. Note that this price is for the hardware only. You will also need a shaft made by some local woodworking outfit. The shaft should be made of ash or oak, 5', 2” to 5', 6” from the tip to the socket, with additional length to fit up inside both. You can figure on an additional $50.00 CDN for the shaft, less finishing.

The bottom line for a sergeant is that, if he buys a firelock, plus the associated bayonet, belly box and belt, and firelock accessories, the cost of his complete uniform and equipment will be essentially the same as that of a private or corporal. What he saves on the cost of regimental lace will be taken up by the cost of his halberd. A sergeant could get by without buying a firelock at all. But then he would have nothing that goes “bang”, and what's the fun of that?

JUNIOR OFFICERS (Ensigns, Lieutenants, Captain-Lieutenants, Captains) -
Back in the period we are re-enacting, an officer's uniform would cost a great deal more than that of a private, or even a sergeant. First, the natural dyes to produce scarlet were much more difficult to obtain than those to produce madder red. The cloth for officer's clothing was more finely woven, and therefore more expensive to make. Finally, the silver (or gold) lace and buttons were made with real silver (or gold), unlike the substitutes made for re-enacting today. Officer's clothing would be tailor-made, and most officers would have their clothing made to the best standard they could afford, to show off their affluence. Today, however, with machine-made cloth, chemical-based dyes, and artificial metalic lace, the uniform of an officer is about the same cost as that of a private.
     The uniforms of officers were far less regulated than those of the other ranks. Variations abounded, although we will want to keep these within reason. “What Shall I Wear” will still supply a general guide, with the exceptions described below:
- SHOES and SHOE BUCKLES: An officer would normally wear a somewhat fancier shoe than those worn by privates and NCOs. The Franklin model from Fugawee (scroll to Franklin), at $104.50 USD plus shipping, would be a good choice (note that these are not straight last shoes). For buckles, something slightly fancy such as the Vine and Leaf or Ribbon models would be appropriate, and should be ordered in White Bronze to match the silver lace worn by officers of the 40th. These are $35.20 USD per pair.
- SHIRT: An officer should wear a ruffled shirt, available from G.G Godwin (the regular Officer's Shirt) at $39.50 USD, for most occasions. If you can afford two such shirts, specify one with cuff ruffles and one without. Alterations are recommended to allow the waistcoat to be closed through the chest ruffles.
- NECK STOCK: Since an officer will nearly always wear a ruffled shirt, a Ruffled Stock is not necessary. Officers should wear a regular Neck Stock [LS-376] for $5.00 USD, in white. The same note on preventing the ties of your Neck Stock unravelling as mentioned in “What Shall I Wear” should be followed.
- WAISTCOAT: When ordering from C&D Jarnagin Co., specify “British Madder Red” for the Body and Pocket colour. Also, officers of the 40th did not wear regimental lace, but silver lace instead. This is available from Najecki (scroll to ½" Bias & Stand, Metallic lace, Silver) for $6.00 USD/yd. 4 yards will do for your waistcoat, but you will need about 32 yards more for your regimental coat.
Jarnagin does not have the silver plated buttons required for an officer's waistcoat of the 40th. You will have to order these separately from Najecki (click on Plain Dome Turret Shank); order 12 of the Plain Dome No. 7, silver plated, at $1.00 USD each.
- FATIGUE CAP: When ordering this from C&D Jarnagin Co., specify “British Madder Red” for the crown.
- TRICORN HAT: When ordering this from C&D Jarnagin [#5001] (scroll to “Clothing” in menu, select “Hats”, scroll to “18th Century Tricorn”), specify silver metallic lace edging, as well as black rectangular cockade. The price remains the same: $79.95 USD.
- REGIMENTAL COAT: When ordering cloth from Najecki, order Abimelech-Hainsworth Scarlet Doeskin instead of Kochan & Phillips Bright Madder Red, at $72.00 USD/yd. The officer's coat is longer, and for most sizes you will need at least 4 yards. You'll also need 1 yard of buff facing cloth and 5½ yards of linen lining. NOTE: The same 1750's Coat pattern from The Recollections of J.P. Ryan used to make the private's coat is also used to make the officer's coat.  As stated above for the waistcoat, the lace is ½" Bias & Stand, Metallic lace, in Silver, and also available from Najecki at $6.00 USD/yd., and you'll need about 32 yards of it.
Buttons for an officer's coat must be silver plated. Get these from Najecki, Plain Dome (Hollow) No. 13, a minimum of 47, and specify silver plated on the order form, for $1.00 USD each.
     If you're having your coat made by C&D Jarnagin, specify “British Madder Red” for your body colour. It is highly recommended, however, that an officer's coat should be custom-made by a local tailor.
- AIGUILLETTE: This distinction of rank was worn on the right shoulder, similar to the shoulder knot of a corporal, but longer, more elaborate, and made of silver cord. This is available from Wm. Booth Draper (select “Tape & Lace” from menu, scroll to Metallic Soutache Braid WTC 142), at $4.00/yd. USD. You'll need about 3 yards. The Regimental Staff will advise you on how the aiguillette should be made and how to attach it to your coat.
- OFFICER'S SASH: All officers wore this sort of crimson sash when on (and often when off) duty. It could be either wrapped once or twice around the waist, over the waistcoat, and tied at the left hip, or slung from the right shoulder, over the regimental coat, to be tied at the left hip. These are available from The Discriminating General (scroll to MIS-042 Officer Sashes) for $69.50 CDN, plus shipping.
- GORGET: The gorget is derived from the last piece of plate armour worn by knights of the medieval period, and was worn around the neck by officers when on duty. You can get this from Jas. Townsend [GR-963] for $30.00 USD. The gorget would be hung on a strip of ribbon in the facing colour of the regiment; the Regimental Staff is looking for a supplier of buff-colour ribbon.
- FIRELOCK: Officers, like sergeants, did not normally carry a firelock on parade or for other official duties, but when in action in North America few officers neglected to carry one. Even General Wolfe carried a fusil on the Plains of Abraham. Just as for sergeants, the Regimental Staff would recommend the 1740's - 50's Officers Fusil from Loyalist Arms (scroll to 1740's - 50's Officers Fusil) in either .62 or .66 calibre, for $699.00 CDN. You will also require a bayonet and scabbard (scroll to LABAFC) for $62.50 CDN.
     All the musket accessories listed in “What Shall I Wear” will also be required for an officer's fusil, except the sling and gun case will likely be shorter, and the cleaning kit should be specified for .62 or .66 calibre, depending on the fusil.
- SWORD: The sword remained one of the distinguishing marks of an officer well into the 20th Century, and was an essential part of the outfit in the 18th. You should get the British Officer Sword [#60] from G.G. Godwin (scroll to British Officer Sword), with White Bronze metal parts to match your lace, for $215.00 USD.
- WAISTBELT: An officer will require one of these to carry his sword and scabbard at all times, and also his bayonet and scabbard if he's carrying a firelock. The waistbelt from The Discriminating General for $72.00 CDN is just as ideal for an officer as a sergeant, private or corporal. However, if carrying a firelock, an officer, like a sergeant, will not require the cartridge pouch and belt. Instead, you want a ...
- BELLY BOX: ... also from The Discriminating General, for $75.00 CDN, which carries only 18 rounds but is more appropriate to the rank. The belly box will require a belt to carry it over the waistbelt, available from G.G. Godwin for $26.25 USD. Tell them what your normal waist size is, and they will make the belt to fit about 10 - 12 inches more than this, because the belt is worn over, not behind, the box.
- SPONTOON: This was another distinguishing mark of an officer (apart from ensigns, who had their hands full with their colour staff). When not carrying a firelock, that is, most of the time, a lieutenant, captain or more senior officer would carry this pole arm, derived from the pike of the late medieval period. The 18th Century spontoon, like the sergeant's halberd, was not really functional as a weapon; it was more of a “badge of office”. But it was still useful to literally hold the troops in line and to intimidate any who might think of running away. Spontoons are available from The Discriminating General (note “Steel Sergeant's Pike Head (with bottom shoe)” in and below photo) for $175.00 CDN. Note that this price is for the hardware only. You will also need a shaft made by some local woodworking outfit. The shaft should be made of ash or oak, 5', 2” to 5', 6” from the tip to the socket, with additional length to fit up inside both. You can figure on an additional $50.00 CDN for the shaft, less finishing.
- FLAG CARRIAGE: An ensign will not require a spontoon, but will require one of these, to carry the regimental colours when on the march. These are available from G.G. Godwin for $68.50 USD. This white leather is not appropriate to our period, however, and will have to be dyed buff with a brown-coloured dye.

The bottom line for a junior officer is that, as with a sergeant, the total cost of his uniform, arms and accoutrements will depend largely on whether or not he chooses to buy a firelock and the associated extras. It's worth pointing out, however, that historically the 40th spent decades serving as the understrength garrison of a frontier colony, where the formalities of European warfare counted for little, and every able-bodied soldier, officer or not, was needed in the firing line during times of crisis. Officers of the 40th would have owned firelocks, even if they used them mostly for hunting. As with most things, however, officers would have had considerable leeway as to exactly what sort of firelock they would own and use.
If a junior officer of the 40th chooses to buy a firelock, his total costs will be somewhat higher than those of a private or corporal, but by no more than about $400.00.

SENIOR OFFICERS (Majors, Lieutenant-Colonels, and Colonels) -
There are so few of these positions available in the 40th Regiment of Foot Society that specific requirements can be taken on a case-by-case basis by the Regimental Staff. Generally the uniform will be much the same as that for junior officers. The main variations will be in regard to the regimental coat and footwear. Senior officers had even more leeway with regard to the regulations than junior officers. The coats worn by senior officers were often very similar to civilian coats of the period, but obviously made of red cloth. Lacing and other decoration varied widely, from extravagant to extremely plain. In addition, all the colonels of our regiment historically held the rank of Lieutenant-General or Major-General in the Army concurrently, and would have worn the appropriate uniform for that rank, instead of colonel.
Also, senior officers would have usually been on horseback instead of on foot during reviews and on service. For this reason they would have mostly worn riding boots instead of shoes. Fugawee has riding boots very appropriate to our period for $247.50 USD, plus shipping, per pair. General Wolfe was probably wearing boots very similar to these on the Plains of Abraham.